Coco Chanel & Her Costumes
The jewelry business was hit hard by the First World War, and the few manufacturers that hadn’t been required to switch to war materials were struggling to sell non-essential luxury products. The end of the war brought no immediate prosperity to the jewelry business, but help was on the way in the form of Coco Chanel, whose marketing talent was second only to her fashion flair. Some time between 1925 and 1927, Chanel decorated her dresses with glittery pins and long sparkling chains. The glamorous touches were considered part of her “costumes” and thus costume jewelry was born.
The rise of the costume jewelry industry was a unique result of its place in time, gaining a foothold during the twenties when the new fashion for bobbed hair required long dangling earrings, and dropped waistlines cried out for stands of swinging beads. Unlike almost every other industry, the fashion jewelry industry weathered the Depression unscathed. Like the inexpensive escape of the nickel movie, people craved the beauty that that a small sum could buy. When a new frock was out of the question, fifty cents could buy a pair of fabulous rhinestone dress clips that added sparkle to an old one.
The Golden Years of Costume Gems
From a manufacturer’s perspective, rhinestone jewelry was the perfect product; inexpensively produced, reasonably priced, and best of all, with a short shelf life. The pieces were considered so trendy that they would be worn for a season, and then replaced with newer versions. The potential for profit attracted everyone in the jewelry business, from the Five and Dime to fine jewelers. Although reluctant to become involved in the costume craze, makers of fine jewelry were sitting idle as the depression deepened and the war years began. Fine department stores demanded finer quality costume pieces and manufacturers complied. During the 1930’s, 40’s and early fifties (considered the golden years of rhinestone jewelry) some of the biggest name in the fashion world produced rhinestone jewelry under their brand. Elsa Schiaparelli, Lily Dache, William Hobe, among others designed pieces for their own houses, or manufacturers such as Coro, Trifari, Eisenberg, Hobe, Monet, Boucher, Richelieu, Ciner and Napier.
As with any collectible, prices for the most unusual, most beautiful, and best quality pieces are highest. These pieces are usually (but not always) attributable to a particular manufacturer, and are in excellent condition, meaning that all stones are anchored tightly in their mounts, and all pin backs and clasps are in working order.